Ricardo Azimovas

This is the insertion of a “character” (or NPC for RPG players) in the game to give a spice on things and it is a rule of the house that I and a staff use that was very cool.

To begin with, anyone who does not know the figure of the Paladin is a slight basic description: Paladins are champions of justice, kindness and loyalty. They have combat skills as a warrior, have the strength of a Berserker, and pledge devotion to a god (or gods), thus obtaining power to cast spells in the same way as a cleric. However, unlike the clerics, a paladin can never serve an evil god. The Paladin is a holy warrior who promotes good. He has powerful fighting abilities, just like the warrior, and some magical abilities just like the cleric. His unwavering faith bestows unique powers, varying according to the RPG system used.

And the rule itself consists of the following:

– In the game setup, replace one of the initial peasant by the paladin. Do this at random as you would put the peasant in the game. The Paladin will be treated as a hero token eliminating the greatest threat of the area … however, it will not disappear as a game card and can not be affected by any spell or ability of any player. Briefly: he will not concede any bonuses to any player and will give all the deviations that a hero makes at the table. Yes, the paladin is only to ruin the lives of the players and is an indestructible guy.

– After the first round, move the Paladin to the next area and so on subsequently. When he gets to The Badlands, the next turn moves him to Norsca and continues the move.

Tip: Add a unique miniature to your liking by identifying it.

Let’s get a “combo” to lose the friendship in this game:

Morrey and Deques needs a single 3+ star accessory between the two of them. For example’s sake, let’s say Deques starts with a 4 star accessory in his binder.

Step 1: Deques sells the accessory to the aftermarket. He gains 4 dollars.
Step 2: Morrey buys this accessory for 2 dollars and immediately re-sells it for 6 dollars. Morrey’s net profit is 4 dollars.
Step 3: Deques buys the accessory for 1 dollar. His net profit is 3 dollars.

Repeat Steps 1-3 ad nauseam.

Does Double Feint swap printed or modified values?
It swaps current, modified values. Any values modifed after Double Feint is played are not affected.

Do the printed Fleet and Ground Strength values printed on Tactics Cards apply in addition to the text bonus?
No. They reflect the text bonus and are not added to it.

How do the World Ship’s Empire Points work?
It is worth 5 points if it is in your Empire at the end of the game, and 9 points if it is in your Warzone.

Do cards discarded for Flame Troopers help all copies of Flame Troopers in your Warzone?
No. They help a single copy of the card.

Can Genetic Super Soldier pay for Tactics cards during an Invasion he participates in?
Yes.

Can Genetic Super Soldier help pay the Draft Cost of Tactics cards in the Central Zone?
No.

When playing Imperial Dropship/War Byrd do you only spend 1 Action to deploy that and all the Infantry/Starfighters added afterwards?
Yes.

Can I use Idunn to draw 7 cards in Sector 5?
No. Only 6 cards.

Can Chancellor Augustus immediately use his Energy Tokens to deploy Infantry Units?
Yes.

Can Baron Viktor discard Starfighters that were used to activate a Coordinated Assault?
No.

Can Simon the Fox re-play a Tactics card from my discard pile that was played during that same Invasion?
No. You cannot use the text on a card more than once during the same situation for which it qualifies, even if it enters the discard pile.

Can I use Repair Station to use Medibot or Workbot twice in a row?
No. (See previous answer)

When using Experimental Prototype do you add the flipped card’s Deploy Cost or Draft Cost to the Fleet Strength?
The Deploy Cost.

Is the Promethean Cyborg both a Robot and a Hero?
Yes.

To help players

Draw Phase
Draw until you have 6 cards (7 in Rounds 9 & 10). On Round 9, or if draw deck is empty, you may shuffle your discard pile into your draw pile.

Energy Phase
Count Energy generated by all Worlds. Optionally play Energy Surge Tactics cards and/or use Home World abilities.

Galactic Phase
Perform the following steps in order:
1. Remove cards with Energy Tokens.
2. Add 1 Energy Token to each remaining card.
3. Draw new cards from the current Galactic Deck until there are 6/8/10/12 for 2/3/4/5 players. Keep drawing until World and Non-World cards at least equal the number of players.
NOTE: on the 10th Round, ALL cards are placed in the Center Area.

Action Phase.
Begin with player holding Destiny Marker and take turns doing any of the following Actions (Energy Surge tokens may be used anytime now, but Energy Surge cards may only be played during the Energy Phase):

1. Draft 1 Non-WORLD Card
Pay Draft Cost in Energy. Units and Tactics go to your discard pile. Prestige Cards go to your Warzone.

2. Deploy X Units
Spend 1 Action Point per Unit plus their Deployment cost in Energy and place them in your Warzone. They remain there until they take part in an Invasion.

3. Invade 1 WORLD
Once per turn, spend 1 Action Point & 1 Energy. Discard Units that equal or exceed the World’s Fleet & Ground Strength. Place the World in your Warzone.
Optional: Place 1 Galactic Grunts or Snub Fighter used in an invasion under the conquered Planet. The Unit is part of your Empire, but not part of your Warzone.

4. Use 1 “Action as an Ability”
Costs 1 Action Point.

5. Pass
You may not play for the remainder of the Round.

DIscard Phase
Discard your hand, keeping one card if you wish. Set Energy to 0.

End Phase
Advance the Round Marker 1 space. Set Action Markers to level indicated on Sector Card. Pass the Destiny Marker clockwise

Ascending Empires rules errata, clarifications and frequently asked questions:

*Errata*

What happens if, when you flick a ship it pops up on it’s side and starts rolling around in a circle on the board… do you wait for it to stop rolling and that’s where it ends up?

Navigational Error!!! Wait for the starship disc to stop rolling. If it rolls off the board then it is returned to your supply area. If it stops on the board, then the player to your left should flip your
starship so its sticker side is face up keeping it as close to its stopping position as possible.

*Clarifications*

*Homeworlds*

Homeworlds are not considered to be planets. Homeworlds cannot be mined, built on, attacked, or blockaded. The only two things homeworlds can be used for is recruiting troops on or launching
starships from.

*Ramming*

A ram only occurs when the starship that you flicked collides with an enemy vessel. When this occurs both your vessel and the enemy vessel are returned to their owner’s supplies. You may ricochet of starships and planets when executing a ram.

Starships can ram battleships, but you gain no victory points for doing so i.e. the 4th level of purple tech does not count under these circumstances.

*Attacking*

When attacking a starship, battleship or a planet the relevant strengths of the combatants determines who is victorious.

– Starship = 1 strength

– Battleship = 2 strength

– Planet = 1 strength for each troop, colony and city. Research stations also count after 1st level pink tech is obtained.

The combatant with the highest strength wins. The rulebook refers to the defence of the target but this is just the same as it’s strength.

Starships can attack after being launched. Ramming requires you to flick, attacks do not.

Attacking only occurs after the active player takes a move action.
Blockading If one of your planet’s is blockaded you cannot use the research stations on that planet. For instance if you have 3 research stations on grey planets and one of those planets is blockaded you could only develop up to level 2 grey tech until the blockade was removed.

*Buildings*

You cannot voluntarily remove your own buildings from a planet.

*Battleships*

When building your Battleship you can remove the two starships from your board, your supply or one from each. The starships are placed back in the box and the battleship is added to your supply.

Battleships act like a starship when landing and launching.

*Game End Trigger*

When the last VP is taken, no matter who takes it, the active player finishes his turn and then everyone else gets a final turn.

*Brown Technology*

2nd level brown technology allows you to add 2 troops to your supply when you build a city instead of adding just 1 troop. If you choose to add a starship to your supply, then you will not gain any troops for building that city.

4th level brown tech allows you to recruit troops to unoccupied planets. This means the following:

You can recruit to a planet that is yet to be revealed. The planet is revealed when you recruit to it.

You can not recruit to homeworlds.

You can recruit to an unoccupied planet that has starships in orbit. Only occupied planets can be blockaded.

*Orange Technology*

2nd level orange tech allows you to attack multiple targets. This allows your starships to attack ships and then attack planets as long as they are all in range.

Battleships can destroy 2 starships during an attack, as the 2nd level of orange tech allows you to attack multiple targets and a Battleship is strength 2 compared to the starship’s strength of 1.

*Pink Technology*

3rd level tech gives your starships in orbit of a planet an effective strength of 2. This means a battleship cannot destroy this starship.

3rd level tech does not increase the strength of you Battleships only Starships.

*Frequently Asked Questions*

There are 4 cities in the supply for each player. Each time you build a city, you can add either 1 ship or 1 troop from the box to your supply. But, if one of your cities is destroyed by an enemy, and
you rebuild it someplace, do you get to add a 5th ship or troop to your supply for rebuilding a previously destroyed city?

Yes, each time you build a city you get to take that action.

The number of playing pieces is a hard limit on what can be built on the board at any one time, right? This is true not only for ships and troops, but also for colonies, cities and research stations, correct?

Yes, these structures are a very limited resource that must be managed and protected, but if a structure is ever destroyed (colonies, cities, and facilities) they may all be rebuilt later in the game.

In order to be considered “in orbit” around a planet, how much of a ship’s marker needs to be touching the colored area surrounding said planet?

If any part of a starship is touching the colored area around the planet, then that starship is in orbit.

When launching a ship at a blockaded planet (assuming you have the tech level that allows launching/landing though blockades, grey-3 I think), can you place your launched ship in orbit touching the blockading ship, thus inducing a ram?

Ramming requires you to actually strike the target with your starship, so you would need to launch a starship and then flick it to ram the target.

Can you voluntarily remove structures from planets to free them up to be placed on other planets?

No. Once built, structures will remain on a planet until that planet is attacked by another player.

If your ship ends its movement in the orbit of a planet and you did not launch/land from that planet, on your next turn are you able to move that ship anywhere in the orbit of the planet before flicking it?

The only time you can place your starship somewhere in orbit is when launching. After a starship has been launched it must be flicked in order to move.

One of my planets with 2 troops is blockaded by my opponents one starship. I then develop level 2 Gray Tech (Launch & Land at Blockaded Planets) – Could I then launch 2 starships in range of the opponent and destroy their starship?

You can destroy an enemy starship by launching 2 starships within range of a target starship. All of you ships will attack after you are done performing a movement action, not just the ones that you
flicked. Ramming does however require that you flick.

If you lose a research station in combat, do you lose tech because of it?

No. You cannot lose technology once you have developed it.

If not, does losing a research post give you the chance to build another one and end up with more than 8 points worth of tech?

Yes. All structures come back to you after being destroyed, and may be rebuilt.

This could allow you to develop more than 8 levels of technology.

However, if you have already developed 3rd level grey tech and one of those research facility is destroyed. You would have to rebuild that facility, and then build one more so you currently have 4 facilities on grey planets before you could develop 4th level grey tech. So losing a facility can really set you back if you’re going for high level technology.

Table with list of all 50 cards used in gameplay. Could be helpful for players, who wants to track which card are already played.

NºDescription Pts
1 Dragon Hunter 1
2 Dragon Hunter 1
3 Dragon Hunter 1
4 Dragon Hunter 1
5 Dragon Hunter 2
6 Dragon Hunter 2
7 Dwarf 1
8 Dwarf 1
9 Dwarf 1
10 Dwarf 1
11 Dwarf 1
12 Dwarf 1
13 Dwarf 2
14 Dwarf 2
15 Dwarf 2
16 Dwarf 3
17 Fire Dragon 2
18 Fire Dragon 3
19 Fire Dragon 3
20 Fire Dragon 4
21 Hero 1
22 Hero 1
23 Hero 1
24 Hero 1
25 Hero 2
26 Princess 1
27 Princess 1
28 Princess 2
29 Princess 2
30 Ship –
31 Ship –
32 Ship –
33 Ship –
34 Ship –
35 Ship –
36 Stone Dragon 2
37 Stone Dragon 2
38 Stone Dragon 2
39 Stone Dragon 2
40 Stone Dragon 2
41 Treasure Chest 1
42 Treasure Chest 1
43 Treasure Chest 2
44 Treasure Chest 2
45 Treasure Chest 3
46 Treasure Chest 3
47 Treasure Chest 4
48 Troll 1
49 Troll 2
50 Troll 3

In this variant you compete against a big fishery Ahoy! Inc. or AI for the control of the fishing resources of Ridback Bay.

Setup: Use the two player set-up. Use 50 fish crates. AI doesn’t keep cards. It automatically draws and launches from the boat deck as described below. Auction Phase: Draw 3 licenses and place them in a top to bottom fashion. Take 2 cubes from the reserve and place them on the top license.

Rules for acquiring licenses:

Bottom license:
– Pay the printed minimum cost.
– The top license automatically goes to AI.
– Reveal as many boat cards as there are cubes on the top license.
– AI launches all the boats that match any of AI’s licenses for free.
– Cubes go back to the reserve.

Middle license- Bid against AI:

– Reveal one card from the boat deck. This is AI’s initial bid. Its cost value determines how many additional cards AI will reveal as its final bid (e.g. if it’s a tuna boat, AI will draw 1 more card, since tuna costs 1 to launch. Lobster-2 more cards, etc).
– Based on the first card, place your offer. Your bid is binding; you can’t modify it after this step.
– Reveal the rest of the AI’s bid (cost value of first card = # additional cards). The sum of the coin value of all cards is AI’s final offer.
– If your bid > or equal AI’s, you win the auction and take the license. Pay the amount that you bid, even if it’s higher than AI’s. Add 1 cube to the top license. If there are already 4 cubes on the top license, the top license automatically goes to AI. AI reveals as many boat cards as there are cubes on the license and launch all matching boats for free.
– If your bid < AI’s, you lose the auction. AI gets the middle license, and you get none this round. No cubes are added in this case.

Top license:

– Pay minimum +$4.
– Discard the cubes on the card or put back in the reserve, your choice. (Cubes act as timers.

No license purchased
– If you don’t buy a license this round, the top card goes to AI. AI reveals as many boat cards as there are cubes on the license and launch matching boats.

After the auction is over, shift upward any remaining license in the offer, then fill up the empty spaces from top to bottom. If the top license has no cubes, place 2 cubes from the reserve on it.

Launch Boats and Hire Captains phase:

After you launch your boats, AI reveals one card from the boat card deck. If this boat card matches any of its licenses, it launches this boat. Don’t place captains on AI’s boats.

Fishing phase:

AI boats don't need captains to fish. AI’s boats get one crate following the 4 crate/boat limit.

Processing and Trading phase: AI doesn’t process or trade.

Draw Phase: AI doesn’t draw cards.

End Game: As per regular rules, if you run out of licenses to refill the offer (three in this case) finish the round, or if you run out of fish crates, the game ends after the fishing phase.

Scoring: You score as per regular rules. AI scores normally, applying all score bonuses from premium cards.

Difficulty:

You could scale the difficulty in several ways:
– Applying or not applying King Crab’s bonuses to AI score.
– Each time AI gets the top license, instead of launching all revealed matching boats, only reveal until the first matching boat, or stop when the # cubes on card is reached, whichever comes first.

Alone? Alright!

http://boardgamegeek.com/filepage/85739/soloplay_morels_v1-pdf

A little help for a quick interpretation of the symbols of the game.

http://boardgamegeek.com/filepage/76371/takenoko-symbol-reference-pdf

Seems kind of obvious ‘tactical’ (if one can call this tactic), but it is this: if you took the red dice brains, and other dice from other footprints colors, try to play more and earn better results, as the worst since you went to be played.

If you are marked with 2 shotguns, pass the time.

If you had as a result the shotgun given in green, pass the time, you really are an unlucky zombie and play in the next round.

If you took footprints with a red dice or 2 yellow and has suffered 1-2 shots, pass the time.

When you’re playing with The Innsmouth Board a primary error of some players is to forget the fearsome city of Innsmouth unless you have a monster portal or somewhere inside her.

But inevitably in the game some players busy eliminate monsters in Arkham or close portals forget that each team is Prevented from the gate opening , such as by an elder sign token or an investigator ability , add one uprising token to the Deep Ones Rising track.

Usually when players remember it is already in force Martial Law Innsmouth.

One strategy to be adopted in the first innings of the game is to send 1 or 2 players ( usually a character can start with 1-2 clue tokens ) and the town of Innsmouth go to the Esoteric Order of Dagon and Marsh Refinery, (both sites have have 1 token each clue as initial setup of the game ) and there spend 2 Clue tokens to place on Them spaces on the Feds Raid Innsmouth track , purposely leaving the green area Innsmouth without advancing the Feds Raid Innsmouth track.

After this, I suggest to close the portals of the game, kill monsters, etc. When the Deep Ones Rising track is a worrying level send preferably a character with a good level of Sneak a Innsmouth, spending 2 Clue tokens in the green area and resetting the Deep Ones Rising track.

An interesting variant to be seized is put to the group who want to get a little more excitement in this game (as if he was not already enough) is to put a Herald, one Guardian and one Institution simultaneously in the same game.

The game features more dynamic and makes you have more factors to chase throughout the game.

Of course if you think that’s too easy, you can put 2 and Herald with a Guardian and / or Institution.

A preference for local own board games to play and which the public site is among adolescents / adults. Not recommend taking this game to a friend’s house if you do not know your parents, spouse or relatives who live with him.

Speaking of fiends is a taboo for many people, the more playing a board game that comes to this matter.

If you’re that guy who thinks only good guys die and the bad guys live to tell the tale, the following order of play:

– Play a Trail Boss (intimidate his opponents) in Saloon, pay $ 3 and call another Trail Boss for you.
– If the tile from the Bank is open, throw a Gunslinger there. Run away if you see someone very strong in this place. Bank robbers on the run are good, remember that.
– Send an Greenhorn to Church. The weak must pray.
– Return all its cowboys back to its ranch (Trail and a Boss more).

For anyone who loves the characters Victor Hoffman, Carmine and Anya Stroud and was sad that they are not in the board game now goes to happiness (and killing) general, their COG Character Cards:

http://files.boardgamegeek.com/file/download/7gqjuhzjno/custom_character_cards.pdf?

For fans of the books follows an Investigator Sheet of a very famous character: Calvin Write.

Enjoy it! Click here >

Tired of playing with the elders ever?

Here are a few links that officers give players alternative scenarios and stories to be played:
Click here to view >

The League scenarios on the Arkham Horror support page have different rules for some Elders:

Check out the scenarios >

What is a game where you shoot and no one sounds of gunfire and explosions?

A tip to make the game more fun is to download via mobile sounds official weapons Gears of War and Gears of War also Black Ops.

Nothing like throwing a Grenade Token with the sound of “Frag!” and send some of the Locust to a spectacular death.

One option for the game and leave it very exciting is you do Labyrinthian Facility described rulebook and add to the game EVERY Secret Room. This will cause many players to advance enough in the rooms only to find a Secret Room and get more DFs or more dynamic Interfaces.

Obviously the area in which the card would be Secret Room would be empty in the initial setup.

If anyone has seen the anime Ghost in the Shell’ll find yourself within the anime.

For the fans of the game and the series, a recommendation is to play with the music of singer “Origa” – yes this is the same name.

This is the singer’s official series and if you have not heard this Russian singer not know what you’re missing.

(Yes, Origa is Russian and works as a singer in Japan)

Really gives even more excitement to the game.

Players who follows the game, came an errata of the Rulebook and Scenario Guide, see the official website of the Privateer Press.

Players, watch and control up to how much you spend on bids to buy one gene in Mutation Phase. Unless the gene is crucial to the survival of the dinosaur or a tactic very effective for the rest of the game pay no more than 3 in a gene. Use the variations in your favor, always play a lower bid and take the few genes paying MP (mutation points).

Genes are paid for using MP (mutation points). Since these are also victory points, be careful about how you spend them!

A good strategy to be adopted in the Mutation Phase is when you can buy gene “Horn”.

If you buy the game for 3 genes of “Horn” you only have a 1 in 6 chance of having one of his dinosaurs killed by an opponent.

This is due to the fact that as the probability of success on the dice and the number of genes of “Horn” in the game (there are 5 total) makes the chances of someone overcome you in combat fall sharply.

So a good strategy of attack / defense is you buy these genes. Besides the excellent defense that you can acquire in the game, you have the probability of success of 5 on 6 kill the enemy dinosaur!

Just one last comment to this strategy: stay tuned to only two genes of the game – “Bony plates” and “Large horn”. One of these two genes in dinosaur board of an opponent can influence the likelihood of attack / defense.

A good strategy for you to get some points extra experience is you accumulate an amount of gold GB and spend them all at once, and can accumulate the hearts of bronze, silver and gold.

Every 10 hearts the same type you earn experience points.

Depending on the cards that you decide to stay in the hand (cards that give extra drive letters and “weaker” as the “Baseball Bat”) is a cool strategy: Increase your attack. It may seem to have little advantage +1 in attack, but when his letters arms begin to download will be very helpful you increase your attack.

Therefore a extratégia cool is if many letters get moving, go to the police and take the token +1 in attack.

In the series Rick did the same (for this was the first place), why would not you?

Important Tip: Always stay with the letter “Baseball Bat” by hand, anyway you can use several of these in combat that do not require as much luck in your data.

In fighting the toughest use other cards that give more power, but do not return to your hand.

A really fun thing to play well in The Walking Dead is that you can get into the mood of the show.

Put a music type a country song or a typical American country rock to give the game atmosphere. Switch to a heavier rock and aggressive appear if a player zombie is a zombie who will love to inject a little adrenaline in players survivors.

Mobile applications can make the noise of firearms every time someone knocks a zombie in order to give a grace to the “deaths” of them.

Of course, there are applications or even CDs that make zombie noises. Very recommendable touch them when a player is solving a letter to meet and be with few weapons or without allies.

An interesting strategy early in the game is: see who is the player who has an average fairly good money and weaponry or initial.

Why? The recommendation I give is choose or nominate after the player is to go and stay Dunwich.

The player who is in Dunwich and has a relatively good amount of money (a $ 5 cash) and a relatively good weapon (handguns or rifles for example) may well end up with occasional monsters that appear in Dunwich (thus preventing the Horror Dunwich awake), get clue tokens (there’s a fair amount in the town of Dunwich) may seal a portal with a bit of luck and possibly while helping players in Arkham.

Appoint a “Responsible for Dunwich” early in the game is a great idea, and whenever such person is named, the group never had trouble with the possible awakening of the Dunwich Horror.

And believe me, to spare time for “Responsible forDunwich” helping colleagues in Arkham. Nothing a little money for the train tickets can not solve.

An important tip (or even strategy) for those who want to play for the first time and not get hurt is you vary the resources.

I know it’s tempting to pick cities that have higher chances of having profits (with a probability of greater profits), but a good range of resources is key in this game. There will always be a lack of some kind of action during a game, so have a good variety of them for a replacement or simply to build something or get some card that will help you.

Accumulate too much of any type of resource and there are no players interested in it, a good alternative is you build a port city to make the exchange of resources.

The Johnny ability to win on tie, so he’s a good zombie killer. Give the Chainsaw card to him to give him an extra fight dice and kill all zombies.

By making the moves do not get carried away putting the game early in its highest parts, try to always play their parts mean values​​.

Leaving at least a couple pieces of high value, you can at a time of winning a game “corner area”, which can cause you to have several moves by building in some places with pieces of low value.

Always stay aware of which player belongs to the most valuable piece off the board. Maybe he can use it to get great score at the end of the game.

Get first technology is quite interesting for the game, since it’s a pretty easy way to get closer to final victory.

In a game of 4 players or more if you have a spirit so aggressive to attack early on some players, get some technologies as soon as possible first. The technologies bought by creating cost more but are worth it and make all the difference when the game goes to the final.

Remember that copying technologies does not make you score in the game.

Keep your eye when you create a temple in an area with exit to the sea.

Usually these regions are susceptible to both ground attacks from the legions as well as maritime attacks.

Be aware when you build these types of temples and look good when your opponents make temples in these types of places because you have the versatility to perform three types of attacks: by land, by sea or by both simultaneously!

A tip for the people who think of buying (or own the game). Buy large and small sleeves.

A pack of Mini American Board Game Sleeves and four Standard American Board Game Sleeves (increase in one of Standard American Board Game Sleeves if you have plans to buy the Mission Pack 1 – are 36 new cards).

Protect the game well, because when the excitement some sleeves can get wet (with sweat, ehg!).

Better than the sleeve the cards. The sleeves depending on the brand very last, the cards despite being a great graphic may have a little wear after about 4 or 5 games.

It seems kind of nonsensical but skeletons in this game has an advantage withstand many rounds of combat.

If you control at least two swamps in the game (something not too hard) a good tactic is to do this “combo”. There will be a proliferation of skeletons at the game table that will make your opponent think twice before attacking you.

See the benefits of these two tiles and join in the game.

Crush opponents.

A good opening in a 6-7 player game (maybe in a 5 player game too) is the following:

When all knights came to Camelot, each knight with 2 or more Grail cards give on of them into the round table. Each knight without a Grail should then take one. In the first round each player can normaly draw a black-card, moves to the grail, lose a live and put a grail-card on it. Depends on the black cards drawn, the following players can setup a catapult (not to many) to “save the grail”.

This is an tricky situation for the traitor, since he can’t deny help without a very good excuse.

This strategy depends on the grail-cards draw by the players at startup, but in the last two games i made (in both the knight start with this strategy) the grail was taken in round 2 or 3!

After the grail-quest is done, the next quests depends. Lancelot can be done, if possible, excalibur should be held at least in the game, if it is needed the group can often rush out Pikts/Saxs in one round.

You definitely want to be on the “absorbed” side of the initial few mergers, but only if you can be first or second. The biggest win is by successfully rolling over a majority stake several times in small chains. The trick is to judge when the best time is to take shares or cash instead of keeping the shares in the absorbed chain. Trading lots of shares into a bigger chain is called “suckage”.

Don’t engage in share-buying wars over control. You may win, but if you’ve spent too much money in one place, you’re probably doomed.

A common counter tactic is to deliberately re-form absorbed chains in an isolated part of the board, where the chain will not have the opportunity to merge again.

This is called “bansihment”

Another counter tactic is to deliberately enlarge chains that someone else controls, preventing them from becoming the absorbee, and eventually preventing them from being merged at all. It’s true this gives your opponent a guaranteed payout, but only at the end of the game. The key in acquire is turnover. Having all your money locked in a big chain (too early in the game) is death.

Plane cards are Magic cards, and the text on them follows most of the rules you’re familiar with. Each plane card has a name, a type, a subtype, and at least two abilities. Oh, and gorgeous, all-new, landscape-oriented art, but that’s not really a rules thing.

Before we look at the parts of a plane, take a look at these true facts about plane cards:

At any given time, exactly one plane card will be face up, in a new game zone called the command zone. As long as a plane card is face up in the command zone, its abilities affect the game.

They’re never put onto the battlefield, and they’re not permanents, so nothing can destroy or otherwise affect them.

A plane card’s controller is the player whose turn it is (although this can change when a player leaves the game; see Leaving the Game, below). When a plane card’s abilities talk about “you,” they’re always talking about the plane’s current controller. If the plane’s abilities have targets, its current controller chooses them. The rules below will occasionally make a distinction between a plane card’s owner and its controller.

The Planechase plane cards introduce a groundbreaking new way to experience planeswalking. Through this innovative new kind of card, two or more players can battle each other across a variety of diverse worlds, each with its own unique effect on the game. These thrilling new conditions add a whole new layer of chaos, meaning the only thing you can count on is unpredictability.

What Is Planechase?

Planechase gives you everything you need to play Planar Magic, a new casual variant that sends you and your friends on a tour through the Multiverse. Each plane you visit—represented by a plane card—changes the nature of the battlefield. You never know how long you’ll stay or where you’ll go next, and the result is an ever-shifting race to exploit the unique nature of the plane you’re on … or to planeswalk away from a plane that your enemies can take advantage of!

We’ll take a look at a plane card in a moment, but to know what you’re looking at, you’ll need a little bit of background.
Start the Journey

You can use Planechase rules in two-player games or your multiplayer variant of choice, but Planar Magic is intended for multiplayer free-for-all games with 3 to 6 players. Each player needs a normal minimum 60-card Constructed deck (such as, say, the one in each Planechase game pack) and a planar deck of at least 10 plane cards (fortuitously, also included in each game pack). Your planar deck is shuffled like your regular deck, and you can’t look at or rearrange the cards in it.

You’ll also need at least one planar die, also included in each game pack. The die has six faces, four of them blank.

Other than the rules for plane cards and the planar die, the game proceeds normally, including the victory condition. You win a multiplayer free-for-all game or a duel when all other players are eliminated, your team wins a team game when all other teams are eliminated, etc.

Now that you’ve got everything you need, you can get to the action. Determine who goes first, shuffle your decks, draw your hands, and resolve any mulligans as normal. Then, before the game starts, the player who’s going to go first turns the top card of his or her shuffled planar deck face up.

Uma das coisas mais legais do Munchkin é o fator caos. Para aumentar o fator surpresa do jogo é interessante todo começo de turno cada jogador jogar um dado definindo crítérios aleatórios de quem começa o turno, como por exemplo:

1º Turno começa quem tirar o maior número sentido horário;
2º Turno começa quem tirar o menor número sentido anti-horário;
3º Turno começa quem tirar um número mais próximo de 3 e vai sendito que o dono do jogo determinar;

Etc.

Por ser um jogo cooperativo, muitas pessoas esquecem de delegar funções umas às outras no jogo. Uma dica importante é definir ou nomear alguns jogadores-chave:

– O matador de monstros;
– O mago do grupo; e
– O cara do dinheiro.

Muito útil é logo que começa o jogo é delegar estas funções, pois estes três jogadores-chave é que vão controlar um pouco a procriação incansável de monstros no tabuleiro e ajudar os demais jogadores do grupo.

Assim você consegue “passear” pela cidade recolhendo clue tokens, explorandar portais e ativar funções especiais de algumas localidades sem se preocupar muito com os monstros e a falta de dinehiro.

Para quem não conhece aqui vai uma sugestão de banda para tocar enquanto jogar Arkham Horror:

Nox Arcana

Se não conhece a banda, hora de conhecer, pois realmente dá um calafrio danado escutar as músicas deles em determinadas partes do jogo, principalmente quando o grupo ou algum jogador se dá mal, heheh…

Uma dica importante no jogo é: Sempre que um portal (ou mais de um portal ao mesmo tempo, dependendo da expansão com a qual estiver jogando) abrir, tenha um jogador disponível e pré-disposto a entrar no portal.

Muitos jogadores ficam acovardados ao querer explorar um portal (principalmente se está com pouca vitalidade e sanidade), mas às vezes ao entrar em portais você pode ter a sorte de pegar uma carta que lhe dê dinheiro, itens únicos, magia ou itens comuns… ou até mesmo passar sem acontecer nada no local.

Já ocorreu em um jogo em que eu jogava de um jogador passar totalmente ileso 2 vezes (sim duas vezes) pelo reino do Abismo (!!!). Sim, foi uma baita sorte mas aconteceu, isso sem ele fazer sequer uma única rolagem de dados.