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Memoir 44 offers the fan a lot of options, and one of them is overlord rules!
Some complain about M44 being a 2 player game, but they probably don’t know about “Overlord” rules. You can play overlord rules for the base game, but it really needs two base games or overlord battlemaps to take full advantage of what you can do in team play. With two base games, you just put two boards side by side on the narrow edge. You can download the first edition of the overlord rules here
Normally, the rules talk about playing two teams of 4 (8 players); however, you can scale it down, since it’s hard to find 8 players to play a game. Just decide who’s the Commander in Chief, and who plays the sections.
And to really make overlord shine, buy the “Operation: Overlord” expansion to get the special Overlord deck. This makes it easier to keep track of the rules, since many are printed on the cards.
Of course, there’s nothing stopping you from playing overlord for 2 players, and many players do just that and prefer it that way.
One of the great things about Memoir ’44 is it’s expandability. It’s not a game…it’s a game system! One of the complaints about M44 is that it’s so lightweight and limited, that some wargamer snobs don’t consider it a “wargame”.
Well, I believe this is better addressed in one of the more recent expansions called “Breakthrough”. Basically, Breakthrough introduces a larger board for two players. It’s about the size of two normal base game boards put together on the wide sides, making it a deeper board. The breakthrough scenarios allow for “deeper” game play not just because of the board, but also more medals need to be won and more units on the board.
For this expansion to really shine, you need the “Winter Wars” expansion which includes the new “Breakthrough” command deck. These cards really open up your options, because it allows you to move more units while others are attacking. This helps the game a lot, because the board is so long! You’re units sometimes have a long way to go to get to the front line and engage the enemy.
Whenever you can, keep a unit or two in the hexes with the flank lines drawn through them! Then they can be activated by either Section orders.
Others have mentioned this, too, but i’ll echo how important it is to plan ahead! If you are down to only one Left Section card, but have a few good Center Section cards, then get those troops in the Left Section onto (or across) that line! (Granted, terrain & enemy position can foil that plan, but it’s often well worth the try).
Tanks can be a formidable weapon given their movement and range of 3 each. They are often best used at this maximum range to stave off an unwanted Ambush attack.
Their most powerful tool, however, is the Armor Overrun (AO). AO lets you move into an adjacent vacated hex due to a retreat or unit elimination and then attack again. This is effectively a double turn when it is triggered. Use it to mop up weak units, especially those trying to stay out of the fight. If you go after stronger units (those with most of their figures), make sure their retreat path is not completely blocked. Rolling a flag on the first strike is more powerful than a single hit.
Be cautious of terrain type as the terrain you are standing on, or overrun into, may prevent moving and/or additional combat this round.
In Memoir 44, causing an enemy to retreat can be a good thing, but preventing it from retreating or forcing it to retreat off the board is even better. One way to do this is by placing your units behind it or attacking the enemy unit while it is on the base line. For each retreat the opposing player can’t carry out, he/she loses 1 figure. Setting up your units to prevent the enemy from retreating takes time and patience.
If you have artillery or if you are using the air rules, you can direct
your attacks against the enemy units on the opposing player’s base line.
Even if you fail to force the enemy unit’s off the board, you can bet the enemy player will be concentrating on moving his/her units inland
instead of attacking you.
Also, don’t fall into this situation yourself by blocking your retreat
paths should the need to strategically redeploy be of utmost importance.
Once the base game scenarios start to get stale, the next place to look is the army packs. They are the simplest expansion to get, and they add a lot to the base game with new armies and rules for each army. You don’t have to get all 3 either, you can just pick one and try it out, then get another.
The Pacific Theater focuses on the Japanese armies with new miniatures and rules for them. You reuse the US/Allies units for the base game to play the marines with some new rules for them. Scenarios for that part of WWII are included as well.
The Eastern Front adds the Soviet forces miniatures and scenarios to reflect the other side of the European front. Some people highly recommend this one, and this theater gets more love in future expansions.
The Mediterranean Theater adds the British units. Expect lots of tank battles in this one as you roam over the Sahara Desert trying to push back the Italians and Germans. This introduces the Italian rules and anti-tank weapons.
Beyond those expansions, things get more complicated as more expansions require previous expansions to fully utilize new scenarios.
I’ve found the “Memoir 44 Tactics and Strategy Guide” by Alexis Beuve to be very challenging and worthwhile as an instructional guide. It includes a wealth of information on key aspects of infantry, armor, and artillery, on scenarios and tools, and also provides a number of game walkthroughs. Alexis’ walkthrough of the Sword Beach scenario really opened my eyes to how one must play both strategically and tactically to win, all the while being mindful of opportunities that arise from cards drawn and in-hand.
Just one awesome tidbit out of hundreds in the book is the general guidance to play armor (depending on the situation) more in a supporting role than in an offensive role. I suspect that I’d probably otherwise have played armor more in the offensive role, often placing them at risk, until I’d have had many games under my belt.
WHAT I LIKED ABOUT THE BOOK
– Chapters and chapters of solid advice for playing various units and situations
– Starts off relatively easy, then builds upon earlier advice to deliver more advanced techniques
– The 4 different game walkthroughs not only highlighted a variety of scenario types, but included a nice twist when the writer analyzed a game played by other tournament-winning players with commentary from the players as to why they made certain decisions
– Provided overviews of tools and web areas for the player to use as reference
– Covers all of the key expansions
– Includes one-liner “proverbs” of key tactics/strategies that can be more easily remembered when playing (e.g. “Infantry attacks armor at close range”)
WHAT I DIDN’T LIKE SO MUCH ABOUT THE BOOK
– Dense in information, and dry at times (what did I expect, it’s a wargame, right?)
– Some one-page references to certain scenarios didn’t really provide advice or commentary, but seemed to serve merely as a pointer for the reader to the scenario
– Some maps were too small to easily read and reference (although I’m red-green color blind, so maybe that played a role in my difficulty)
If you need to protect wounded units, move a stronger unit next to an enemy unit to keep them from attacking the weaker unit. The rules say, that units must attack other units that are adjacent to them. In other words, you can’t attack another unit at long range if an enemy unit is adjacent to you.
This can be an effective tactic to buy you some time particularly from enemy artillery.
http://www.daysofwonder.com/memoir44/en/content/faq/
Very concise and segmented into easy parts, it is an essential read to any Memoir 44 player.
I hope you will find this document useful, I certainly did!
One of the most valuable moves in Memoir ’44 is being able to cut off a unit’s retreat. This allows flags on a die roll to count as hits now and increases the probability of a hit. Tanks become key to this strategy, because they can move up to three hexes and still battle with up to 3 die depending on terrain. Combine that with an armored assault card, and it’s lethal.
So when attacking see if you can maneuver one of your units to where it can block a target’s retreat, you’re in good shape if it doesn’t leave you too vulnerable the next turn.
Also, always be on the lookout for units that can’t retreat because they are at the back of the board or their own units block the retreat path. That makes them prime targets.
Usually it is a good Idea to play all of your recon 1 cards as early as possible to get them out of your hand and pad your hand with more useful cards. Play sandbags as early as possible to protect your troops, and because it might be more painful to give up a chance to attack later in the game.
It can be annoying when a retreat flag is rolled against you. Not as damaging as a hit, but usually as frustrating. Some terrain allows you to ignore a flag, which is a benefit.
However, many people forget this is (usually) an option. When more than one retreat flag is rolled, it is often best to accept the first flag as well. This will allow you to move 2+ hexes away (instead of ignoring one and only moving 1 space). Frequently, this will get you out of range of other attackers this round. Look also to move into better coverage because of the terrain type or blocking Line of Sight (LOS).
Remembering that ignoring flags are optional can turn an annoying roll for you into a frustrating roll for your opponent.
Armor Assault is deadly card in the hands of a experienced player. Don’t waste this card right a way with your tanks. The key to this card for scenarios with lots of tanks on your side is to get your tanks in position for a close strike and weaken the opponent’s units.
Why is this so powerful? Well, you get an extra die to roll against your enemy if you’re adjacent to them. So, get as many tanks next to an enemy. This works best if you get next to wounded units that are down to 1 or 2 figures. If the enemy retreats, you can perform “Armor Overrun” maneuver for another possible 4-die attack. If they’re eliminated, you can overrun for an attack on another nearby unit!
I have turned the tide of a battle that I was losing with this card and three well-placed tanks! Going from being down 3-1 in medals to being up 4-3 in one single turn. I eventually went onto to win the scenario.
Often I play against people playing a little too close with their Armor..Infantry tends to chew up tanks if you can get within close range of them. Use the tanks range of three to your advantage, keep a distance and try to let enemy infantry close that gap, by the time they get to you they have probably taken heavy casualties and you are good to charge in and pick up that armor overrun.
When I set up a scenarion for Memoir ’44, I first put out a single figure for each unit per hex. I find it is easier, faster and more accurate to focus on getting the correct type out first, then sifting through and counting after that is done. Try it next time you play this awesome game!
When you are using multiple units to attack a single target, it is best to attack with the your unit that is farthest away. You want all your attackers to be able to attack. But if you attack first with your unit that is closest, the target may have to retreat out of range of the farthest unit. So, you would have wasted activating that farthest unit. If you attack with the farthest unit first, the enemy may have to retreat, but will still be in range of the nearest unit for another attack.
The only time you shouldn’t attack with longest range unit is if the target could potentially retreat out of range (behind a hill or forest). Then you’d want to attack with the units next to the target for maximum dice. Hopefully, the long range unit like artillery can still be in range if the target retreats for an attack.
This card is really only most useful when you have more than one artillery on the board. It’s not completely useless with one artillery, but it becomes more powerful with 2 or 3 artillery on your side. The ability to do two attacks per turn per artillery can be devastating especially at close range.
The ability to move the artillery 3 hexes and not battle is still nice if you have artillery out of range. With multiple artillery, you can let an in-range artillery land a devastating double attack while moving up another artillery into closer range on another turn.
Use it wisely and to full effect!
This is a silly variant but offers some surprising tactical depth.
You need a big bag of zombie figures, or tokens to represent zombies.
When an infantry unit (not armor or artillery) is eliminated, immediately replace it with a four-zombie unit.
Zombie units have their own “turn” immediately after the Axis turn. All zombie units move one hex per turn toward the nearest non-zombie unit. If more than one unit is equidistant, determine which they approach randomly. Zombies are indiscriminate eaters.
If a zombie unit ends its movement adjacent to any non-zombie unit, they attack. A zombie unit battles with as many dice as it has figures. This makes a new horde very dangerous.
Zombie units are battled as though they were infantry, and do not re-spawn when eliminated. They do not count toward victory conditions.
In play this variant creates large numbers of fairly dangerous hordes that must either be avoided (reducing tactical choices) or fought (wasting resources). Both sides suffer equally. It’s pretty fun.
Some years ago, I played a lot this game with a friend. But the limitation of the cards in relation with the side of the board you work on, and the aleatorical way of receiving the cards was bothering us. So, we managed one system to get cards and make decks before to play, and programming the actions in advance. It gives a much more programming kind to the game and deserves better the nice stuff the game is made on.
Not ready to invest in the Memoir ’44 game system? Well, try the online version at http://www.daysofwonder.com/memoir44-online/en/
You get 50 gold ingots to play which amounts to about 18 to 25 games depending on scenario. Download the rules to the base game from the board game website, so you know how the units work in battle. Pick the first few scenarios which are from the base game.
By the time you play a few scenarios, you’ll have a good idea what the game is like and know whether or not you want to buy it.