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Tips & Strategies (9)
Tips & Strategies (9)
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There are a LOT of dice in Marvel Dice Masters: Avengers vs. X-Men and a lot of things that go on with them: prepping, using, fielding, attacking, blocking, getting knocked out, etc. But, even with as much dicey action as there is, I found that using a playmat helped me to understand and learn the phases after only a couple of plays.
Now there is a “playmat” (really little more than a diagram) included in the instruction booklet that is divided into different regions connected by arrows that tell you where dice go depending on phases and actions. It’s a great depiction of game flow but it was just too small and difficult for both sides to see and follow. I found a great printable playmat here on the BGG that has the same regions and arrows. (If this link ever stops working I’m sure a quick image search will bring something up.) I was able to print two of these at FedEx on 11″x 17″ gloss cover paper for $6. Worth it!
Whether you end the game with 20 life or 1 life, as long as you’re the last one standing you win. Just like the various types of energy, life should be seen as a resource and spent when you need it. This usually comes in the form of letting multiple characters hit you without defending just so you can clear their field and hit them with an even stronger, preferably game-ending, attack. There are also certain character abilities that can be waived by taking a small amount of damage. Consider these options carefully because sometimes it’s better to fall behind in life so that you can build up for that perfect strike.
As an example, this last week I played in a tournament where myself and an opponent ended up at 19 to 10, respectively. Both of us had a good amount of characters fielded, he had a wall of annoying Beasts that would heal him if I attacked and I had Iron Man doing the same. At this point he was able to field several extremely strong characters, Dr. Stranges I believe, and he attacked with everyone for 19 damage including globals. I moved an Iron Man forward and said I’d block a pawn…that’s all. I blocked his pawn, knocked it out, gained 1 life, and took 18 damage. This took me down to 2 life, but now his entire field was free of characters! I rolled my dice, fielded a couple of cheap Hawkeyes, and tore through his last 10 life.
Now these situations don’t happen everytime, but as long as you’re aware of the advantages of spending life you’ll be able to make them happen more often than you’d think. Happy mastering!!!
Recently, with the inclusion of PXG, there has been some confusion with the timing to use said Global.
Remember that all the dice you use to BUY (not the purchased die) or Activate an ability (in your turn) go to a “transition” area and are moved to your Used area at the end of the turn.
This area doesn’t exist when you use an ability in your opponent’s turn. Those dice go directly to your used area.
This was implemented so you don’t buy a dice, then activate PXG and re-use the recently used dice.
Also, remember that the moment to use a Global or Any other ability is:
-Your Main turn
-Opponent’s Main turn (after he passes his priority)
-After selecting blockers (same applies for your turn and opponent’s)
Each player selects eight characters and a la Seven Wonders selects one and passes. Creates very interesting decisions – do I build my small cost or high cost characters first?
We ran across the issue of a single character being in both sets, but this added its own strategic element. This is a great way to become familiar with the cards and their abilities.
I am a huge fan of building self contained blocks of cards to play sealed/ limited games from. It is VERY affordable to do this with dice masters as well. I set aside a collection of cards for each Marvel set consisting of the starter, and one each of the commons and uncommons, and 2 dice for each character. Then, we simply draft. We do this several ways, but so far we always split the pool between the two sets AND we randomize the action cards. This makes for diverse matches and keeps the game fresh. Give it a shot 🙂
We regularly play once per week (I really would like to play more), but to avoid falling into meta teams, we usually change the dynamic each week. Here are some examples we have ran in our hobby store so you can play with almost all your dice collection and not only a selected 8:
Highlander: Only 1 dice per card (including basics), 15 HP
Affiliation: All your characters should be from a single affiliation (kinda straight-forward)
Big team: All characters must be above 5 cost (except basic cards, of course)
Swap: Each player brings a team which in turn will be used by another one after drafting numbers from a box (or w/e way you want to sort the players in the store)
The proper use of sidekicks can vastly reduce the damage you take, so make sure to keep some in the field when you can.
I like to set up my team with some lower cost characters and trying to get one of each energy type so no matter what I roll I can buy a character.
Since I am the only one who ones this game in my area I have created a few decks that are fairly equal so when a game does happen it doesn’t take long to set up.