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Tips & Strategies (9)
Tips & Strategies (9)
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There’s a temptation to play everything you’ve got in your hand, because, well, just because you can! Don’t give in to this temptation!!!
Often the best move will be not to move, especially as the board begins to fill up, either because putting down one of your tiles is pointless (because a higher initiative enemy will kill the tile before it can do anything) or because it’s a really valuable tile that could be used to greater effect next turn.
For example, when I’m playing as Moloch, I often hold on to my Air Strike and my Push Backs because there isn’t a large enough clustering of enemy tiles for the maximum benefit of the former, or because I anticipate somebody putting something that damages my base or foils my attacks, in the case of the latter.
Battles end your turn and give your opponents first placement on a newly cleared post-battle board. Unless you have a distinct tactical advantage you could potentially lose, let your opponent be the one to trigger battles, either by playing a Battle tile or by filling the board.
When there’s only one space left on the board…
DO play a tile if it is going to directly benefit you.
DO play a tile if the space is adjacent your base (and could be filled with an attack unit).
DO play a tile if you know the enemy has a tile they could put in that space to devastating effect.
DON’T play a tile just to have an extra tile on the board, whose future use is unknown.
When you have a Battle tile…
DO play it when you can do the enemy base damage at no cost to yourself.
DO play it when you can do the enemy more damage than they can you, but when this tactical advantage could easily be undermined by an enemy play (e.g. a higher initiative unit could easily be placed to kill off your Net Fighter).
DON’T play it when your position is secure but you would take damage in a battle; place more troops to harry the enemy instead or don’t play at all!
We are MOLOCH. EXTERMINATE!
Moloch have nothing to prove, we have destroyed civilization and your pathetic attempts to attack us are futile.
All we need do is sit in a corner, surround ourselves with metal meat sheilds, push back any attempt to get close to our cold metal heart, fill in the subsequent hole with part of our body, and watch as you break against us.
If our heart is exposed, we are not driven by irrational human aggression to make use of a particularly powerful extension of ourselves elsewhere; nothing is too valuable for use as a fine wall.
We need not attack, you can waste your efforts trying to wear us down, but we will regrow and you will be the only one to suffer.
We may not be fast and we may not be mobile, but we are mighty. We are MOLOCH.
Almost more important than knowing the contents of your army is knowing those of your enemies. While it isn’t necessary to memorize every tile or count which of them have been used (though, if you’ve got the mind for it, it could certainly help!), it can give you a very significant edge if you can anticipate what your opponent might play.
This is true in the general sense (e.g. you should be wary of empty hexes next to an Outpost HQ that are in line of sight of your base; that additional action can be devastating), but also with regards to specific units (e.g. beware the Borgo Net Fighters!).
The goal of the game is to destroy all the opposing HeadQuarters while keeping one’s own on the board. While in a 4-player game it usually means defending one’s own HQ and dealing some damage to the opposing ones in 2- and 3-player games the participants are tempted to launch furious attacks against opponents’ HQ-s. While there’s nothing wrong in well prepared attacks, charging blindly may often result in dealing a serious amount of damage to the opponent but losing all the units in the process. That leads to a defeat a few turns later.
So when you decide to launch a total attack do it only in one of three following cases:
1) You have reasons to hope that during attack on a HQ you are able to destroy defending units too.
2) You expect that your attack will bring enemy HQ to zero.
3) You calculate that the game will end soon due to the time limit and the opponent will not have enough time to launch a counter-attack.
One of the most frustrating things in Neuroshima Hex is drawing something super-useful at a time when it is completely useless, like drawing a bunch of action tiles when there isn’t anything on the board yet. A single bad draw like this can really hurt your chances of winning, so here’s an alternative to decrease the chance of a bad draw:
Draw 4 tiles instead of 3 and recycle the extra tile.
Each faction has tactical advice printed on the back side of the handouts. Read it before placing your HQ, and base your actions on that advice. It’s very helpful.
When ending your turn, instead of just having the tiles in front of you, then place them back on top of the pile. This adds a bit of toughness for other players having them to remember what tiles you have.
Of course, this also goes for you, since you can’t see their unused tiles either.
The best way to teach someone is to play totally randomly. Only pull two tiles a turn and place them before you flip them. Yes, there are going to be a few moves that don’t make sense but it makes the game fair because NO ONE makes any choices.